Engine

 2/28/2023 and ongoing

As of 3/11/2023 I am debating wether of not to use the spare engine I have which is identical and purported to be in running condition (needs one freeze plug).  From the outside is looks to be in better condition, but a) I’d have to start all over with the cleaning process, and b) I still need to build the original.  I’m inclined to go ahead with the original no matter how daunting and I’ll have the other as a backup if I totally screw up the engine seal job, or find worse when I get inside.

When I separated the transmission I could see substantial oil residue in the bell housing so I am now assuming that rear main oil seals need replacing.  That takes the job down another rabbit hole since it now requires removing of the pan and probably the crankshaft to replace those seal parts (5 pieces I think).

Since I'm that far into it, I'm going to also paint the block (there is a lot of surface rust on it) and check other things, perhaps even the timing chain.  I will also remove and clean the injectors, glow plugs and fuel injector, and replace the thermostat and of course all hoses. So I'm taking everything off the block.  I've already had some studs come out, which seems to be pervasive on this truck.  All will go back in with Loctite on the stud and anti-seize grease on all nuts.

First thing I found was that someone had done an alternator conversion without a conversion kit.  The alternator was just jammed in against the block with only two mounting bolts and no way to adjust belt tension.  The PO had told me that this had a factory alternator; I guess he was hood-winked too.  So I will get the proper conversion kit for it now (that’s a $179 kit I think). Or perhaps it's just missing a adjustment rod.

Ready to paint

4/22/2023

I flipped the engine upside down and removed the oil pan.  The inside of the engine looks really nice and clean.  I painted the pan while I had it off.

Rear Main Seal Replacement

Today I added a chapter to my catalog of experiences by replacing the rear main seal on the engine, which will hopefully clear a leak.  The rear mains seal is actually 6 parts.  I watched counter videos and read that part in the “Green Bible” before hand.  It is possible to replace all the parts without removing the crankshaft but there is not much room, to work with the ending on a stand and the crank in place.

Note: these are some observations about the job but you will need to use the videoed and manuals for the details.

Besides the two main cap bolts (100 lb torque) there are 10 bolts holding the the two seal half’s on and to get the out you have to rotate the crank to a cut-out part to get to each bolt individually.

The double-half inner seal is heal together with a tiny spring that you have to put around the shaft and hook its ends together. 

The cord “T” gaskets were tight to fit in the grooves and required some effort.  To get the cap on without damaging the corks there are various methods suggested but my method was to put one side in (just) and use a20 thousands feeler gauge to shoe-horn the other side in.  Then its successive gentle taps on each side of the cap to move it downward.  At some point it will (should) engage two prowl pins if you have the cap positioned right (the outside edge will be flush with the case.

With that end of the engine attached to the stand there is not much room to work. The seal ring has to come off the bottom side before you can get the old spring seal out and replaced. The spring is tiny and hard for fat fingers and old eyes, and minimal working area. After many tries to hold both end of the spring and attach one to the otherI held one side with a pair of needle-nose vice grips.  You have to be careful not to damage the spring in the process, and throughout the whole process, not to damage or scratch the bearings.

Painted with original landrover engine green using spray cans purchased from Pangolin 4x4.

5/72023

The engine assembly is coming together.  I’m waiting on some new injector studs and exhaust manifold stud and new nuts for all.  I’ve cleaned the injectors and will test them this week with a pop tester I bought.  If they dont work properly I’ll buy new.  The injector pins were stuck in lol of them but I managed to get them out (2 with the aid of some heat).  Then I polished them with toothpaste and when the were still too tight I polished them with Brasso and I polished the pins with some 1500 grit Emory paper.  Now he all side smoothly.  As I said the pop test will determine if I cleaned the up too much or just right.  I’ll post pics and results of the pop test later. These are before pics; I will post pic of them cleaned up later.

Clutch and pressure plate

Those were installed today also.  I had the disc from the PO and I bought the pressure plate from British Atlantic (rover parts.com) because the cost was 1/2 of what RN wanted.  Although I buy post of my parts from RN I have found that on larger cost items BA is often much cheaper.  I like RN’s web site better because they include full parts diagrams that help in identifying parts. Both provide friendly and good service when you call them.  In both cases I wish they would include more information about thread pattern and pitch (for studs, bolts and nuts); this 1970 truck as a mix of hardware, mostly BSF but some parts will throw you a curve ball.  BA does a better job of information about orders by “pushing” tracking information.

I purchased a cheap but adequate “pop” tester to check my injectors.  After cleaning them I tested and adjusted them to 2000psi; the books calls for 1984psi or 135-137 Bars. The injectors use a copper washer in the bottom of the injector recess in the head.  2 came out easily and the other 2 I’m still trying to figure out how to get out.  I’ve tried dental pics and others things but can’t get the out yet. I have new ones and the seem slightly narrower in diameter so perhaps the onesie in there were jammed in a bit. Stay tuned.

The date is June 5th and the manifolds have been put back on the engine after getting a few new manifold studs and nuts/lock washers from RN.

When I tried to put the injectors back in I learned that there is both an alloy (steel) compression washer than goes on the nozzle end and a copper washer (I do not recall taking any of the compression washers out when I disassembled this.  Also there is a .2 (approx 1/4") space between the head and the injector.  So far I have not figured out why and will ask the FB crowd.  I thought it might be because the injector nozzles were not seated all the way but from what I can see they are.