Steering relay removal and replacement

 3/28/2023

Nightmare! I’ve run ito some tough jobs (bushings, rusted bolts) but this relay takes the cake.  I may need to buy a $100 puller and hope even that works. Stay tuned.

Steering Relay removal (#%^&*) and replacement

So we've determined that the steering relay is about frozen.  Although we were able to move the wheels to turn when moving the rolling chassis around, we cannot move it by hand now that the wheels are disconnect.  I tried adding oil for a week but no improvement.

I know from Youtube that getting them out can be hard to impossible.  So have used very big hydraulic jacks, heat, hammers and even cut them out of the frame.  When I did my 109 it was fairly easy to push it out with a bottle jack, but this time it all different.

First, Ive soaked it with PB Blaster for a couple of weeks.  Then I tried to chain a floor jack to the frame and push it out.  No luck; even broke the handle on the floor jack I had it chained to.  The way the relay is made only the bottom 1.5" is press fitted.  From the top its most open and allows water to get down inside over the years, rusting from the inside.  Next I'm going to try a 50/50 solution of ATF and Acetone.  Then I'm going to flip the frame over so I can beat on it from the underside (or top side with it turned over).  I'll try big hammers and a pneumatic hammer.  Stay tuned for what happens next.

UPDATE

It was a 12 round fight but I KO’d it in the end.

After weeks of various fluids, heat, hammers and presses I finally dismantled my 20 ton press so it would straddle the frame (2 hours to dismantle, straddle, reassemble, press, disassemble, and reassemble the press frame).  It finally did the job, probably aided by all the PB Blaster, ATF/Acetone, and brake fluid I put on it every day for 3-4 weeks).  There is a lot of rust in the cylinder but at least I didn’t have to cut the frame.

The new relay is in place.  Note that the new relays do NOT come with oil in them so make sure you fill them with oil first.  I use 80-90 weight (same as the rest of the truck).  Take out 2 top bolts across from each other, one as a breather and one to fill.  it's a very slow process it only take the oil a few drop at a time.  I don't remember what the spec is but I think I put 60-100 ml in.  I used a basting syringe with a large basting needle; fill it and without the plunger in it will gravity feed. Stick it in an come back to refill when the fluid has gone down.

Engine

 2/28/2023 and ongoing

As of 3/11/2023 I am debating wether of not to use the spare engine I have which is identical and purported to be in running condition (needs one freeze plug).  From the outside is looks to be in better condition, but a) I’d have to start all over with the cleaning process, and b) I still need to build the original.  I’m inclined to go ahead with the original no matter how daunting and I’ll have the other as a backup if I totally screw up the engine seal job, or find worse when I get inside.

When I separated the transmission I could see substantial oil residue in the bell housing so I am now assuming that rear main oil seals need replacing.  That takes the job down another rabbit hole since it now requires removing of the pan and probably the crankshaft to replace those seal parts (5 pieces I think).

Since I'm that far into it, I'm going to also paint the block (there is a lot of surface rust on it) and check other things, perhaps even the timing chain.  I will also remove and clean the injectors, glow plugs and fuel injector, and replace the thermostat and of course all hoses. So I'm taking everything off the block.  I've already had some studs come out, which seems to be pervasive on this truck.  All will go back in with Loctite on the stud and anti-seize grease on all nuts.

First thing I found was that someone had done an alternator conversion without a conversion kit.  The alternator was just jammed in against the block with only two mounting bolts and no way to adjust belt tension.  The PO had told me that this had a factory alternator; I guess he was hood-winked too.  So I will get the proper conversion kit for it now (that’s a $179 kit I think). Or perhaps it's just missing a adjustment rod.

Ready to paint

4/22/2023

I flipped the engine upside down and removed the oil pan.  The inside of the engine looks really nice and clean.  I painted the pan while I had it off.

Rear Main Seal Replacement

Today I added a chapter to my catalog of experiences by replacing the rear main seal on the engine, which will hopefully clear a leak.  The rear mains seal is actually 6 parts.  I watched counter videos and read that part in the “Green Bible” before hand.  It is possible to replace all the parts without removing the crankshaft but there is not much room, to work with the ending on a stand and the crank in place.

Note: these are some observations about the job but you will need to use the videoed and manuals for the details.

Besides the two main cap bolts (100 lb torque) there are 10 bolts holding the the two seal half’s on and to get the out you have to rotate the crank to a cut-out part to get to each bolt individually.

The double-half inner seal is heal together with a tiny spring that you have to put around the shaft and hook its ends together. 

The cord “T” gaskets were tight to fit in the grooves and required some effort.  To get the cap on without damaging the corks there are various methods suggested but my method was to put one side in (just) and use a20 thousands feeler gauge to shoe-horn the other side in.  Then its successive gentle taps on each side of the cap to move it downward.  At some point it will (should) engage two prowl pins if you have the cap positioned right (the outside edge will be flush with the case.

With that end of the engine attached to the stand there is not much room to work. The seal ring has to come off the bottom side before you can get the old spring seal out and replaced. The spring is tiny and hard for fat fingers and old eyes, and minimal working area. After many tries to hold both end of the spring and attach one to the otherI held one side with a pair of needle-nose vice grips.  You have to be careful not to damage the spring in the process, and throughout the whole process, not to damage or scratch the bearings.

Painted with original landrover engine green using spray cans purchased from Pangolin 4x4.

5/72023

The engine assembly is coming together.  I’m waiting on some new injector studs and exhaust manifold stud and new nuts for all.  I’ve cleaned the injectors and will test them this week with a pop tester I bought.  If they dont work properly I’ll buy new.  The injector pins were stuck in lol of them but I managed to get them out (2 with the aid of some heat).  Then I polished them with toothpaste and when the were still too tight I polished them with Brasso and I polished the pins with some 1500 grit Emory paper.  Now he all side smoothly.  As I said the pop test will determine if I cleaned the up too much or just right.  I’ll post pics and results of the pop test later. These are before pics; I will post pic of them cleaned up later.

Clutch and pressure plate

Those were installed today also.  I had the disc from the PO and I bought the pressure plate from British Atlantic (rover parts.com) because the cost was 1/2 of what RN wanted.  Although I buy post of my parts from RN I have found that on larger cost items BA is often much cheaper.  I like RN’s web site better because they include full parts diagrams that help in identifying parts. Both provide friendly and good service when you call them.  In both cases I wish they would include more information about thread pattern and pitch (for studs, bolts and nuts); this 1970 truck as a mix of hardware, mostly BSF but some parts will throw you a curve ball.  BA does a better job of information about orders by “pushing” tracking information.

I purchased a cheap but adequate “pop” tester to check my injectors.  After cleaning them I tested and adjusted them to 2000psi; the books calls for 1984psi or 135-137 Bars. The injectors use a copper washer in the bottom of the injector recess in the head.  2 came out easily and the other 2 I’m still trying to figure out how to get out.  I’ve tried dental pics and others things but can’t get the out yet. I have new ones and the seem slightly narrower in diameter so perhaps the onesie in there were jammed in a bit. Stay tuned.

The date is June 5th and the manifolds have been put back on the engine after getting a few new manifold studs and nuts/lock washers from RN.

When I tried to put the injectors back in I learned that there is both an alloy (steel) compression washer than goes on the nozzle end and a copper washer (I do not recall taking any of the compression washers out when I disassembled this.  Also there is a .2 (approx 1/4") space between the head and the injector.  So far I have not figured out why and will ask the FB crowd.  I thought it might be because the injector nozzles were not seated all the way but from what I can see they are.

Axles, Springs, Hubs, Swivels

 Started February 9 2023 (on going)

Axles, Spring packs, hubs and brakes

I dropped the springs and axles as one unit.  Of the 8 shackle bolts 2 gave me grief but we eventually persuaded with enough air torque, hammering, a pneumatic hammer, and PB blaster.  the only other problem we had was getting the steering rod to come loose from one of the rod ends; that took all of the above plus a torch.

Once the axles and spring were on the ground I flipped the over to undo the U-bolts without getting upside down under.  Now that the spring packs are off I have the diffs up on a work table so I can do all the work at waist height.

Spring pack refurbishment 

First front spring pack looks better than I had hoped.

The procedure for the springs was to disassemble, press out bushings, degrease, rinse, Ospho to kill rust, wire brush (a couple of times), self-etching primer, paint, press in new bushings, reassemble with new dowels and with copper grease between each leaf.  I should point out that the dowels are different sizes front and rear.  I ordered new dowels from Craddocks and the arrived without nuts even though their web site photos show them with nuts.  When I asked about it they asked ME what size the nuts were, and I referred them back to their own web site.  I still haven't' figured out what thread pitch these bolts are, maybe Witworth, but I want to put new nuts on the new dowels.

Springs reassembled with new center pins and com per grease between each leaf.  Just need to heat up and hammer down the leaf holders.  I measured each when finished and one front/one rear have a little more arch in them so I will put those on the driver’s side.

Removing bushing

The bushings in the springs came out Ok using a 20 ton press and an impact socket to push them out but the bushings in the frame will be a different ball game.

2/22/2023

What  pain in the butt the frame bushing are.  I looked everywhere for a tool, even call Landrover places.  There is not one or I would have paid a  lot of money for one.  Everyone just torches out the rubber and then hacksaws the metal part out.  I made a puller with some threaded rod and sockets but it only pulls the rubber and the center tube; not the outer tube which is too thin to get something on it to push it.  So the solution is to cut one side with a hacksaw and the chisel it out.  I got one out that way and have yet to do the other three.  I used a sawsall but it damaged the housing so on the next one I’ll just do it the slow way with a hacksaw.

What a crappy job.  Took me about 2 hours per frame bushing; first pull the center and rubber, then hack-say or saws-all the out sleeve (with is very thing and it it easy to cut into the frame), then chisel until you get it out.

Now I will use a ball hone (ordered a 1.25 Ball hone off Amazon) to clean the inside and put the new bushings in the a lot of copper grease.  They say to freeze the bushings first which shrinks them a tad.  I hope to push them back in wit the same threaded rod assembly I pulled them out with.

Hands down the worst job in the whole build (at least so far).  The problem is that there is no tool available for the job. Believe me I looked and asked and would have put out big money for the right tool; and even more now that I’ve been through it the hard wary.  Taking them out requires a hacksaw, torch and pounding.  To put them back in I first honed each hole (1.25 ball hone from Amazon: it would have been easier if I’d honed them more).  I made a jig using a 12” piece of  1/2” threaded rod (as it turns out I used 5 sections because they will bend under load).  I used the threaded rod with a selection of sockets that are the right size to fit the outside edge of the bushing you pulling through, and if you are inserting a bush: a receiving end socket for the center metal tube to go into (that part ends about about 1/8” outside of flush).  If you are taking out a bushing you need a large enough socket to received the old bushing when it comes out.  Hone the holes well; use copper grease inside the hole and on the bush.

Because this was all new to me I made some mistakes: first make sure you socket you use to push/pull is exactly the size of the outside metal so it pushes on it without pushing on the inner tube.  If you pulling one through the socket also needs to fit inside the chassis hole.  Also because of my ignorance in the matter, as in I didn’t know, I purchased all bushing of the size used for the springs, but the front two chassis mounts use a longer bushing.  I put a short one in a front hole before I realized that it was too short and began researching the matter.  So I had to order 2 more long bushings and 2 more short bushings because I damaged 2.

The good news is the the spring bushings all went is easily with the 20 ton press.

Renew the swivel balls with seals and bearings as needed

On initial inspection the swivel balls are not perfect but probably good enough to go with.  The seal retainers are very rusted and will be replaced.  All the bearings look OK; I'll reuse them.  The swivel housing need a lot of wire brush work to clean up the rust wear the seal retainer seats.

One thing I've notice (in general) on this truck is that studs often come out.  Happened on the trans, engine and swivel housing.  I will put them back in with lock tight.

Renew the brakes with all new components

One of the first things I noticed while disassembling the hubs is that the hub and brake backing plate bolts don't seem to  fit to either SAE or Metric and are more inclined to Witworth.  Checking to see hardware was used for Euro spec trucks.

I also noticed that the backing plates are much heavier that the normal ones.  I found out that this type of backing plate was factory option "mud" guard.  Here are some pics showing the difference between the two.  the ones are the right are the ones on my truck.  You can see that the normal plates are number marked but the heavy duty ones are not.

Renews the Hub seals

Swapping the differentials

The front and rear diffs on a Series 2A are the same.  Given that the rear gets a lot more use over the years it makes sense to swap the when you are torn down to this level.

I decided to swap the diffs (front to rear, rear to front) while I had the axles off and was amazed at the condition of these 54 year old diffs. They look like new, even the oil was clean.  Just need new gasket and a pinion seal, and put them back together.

3/28/2023

Reassembling the swivel balls, hubs and brakes.

Brakes: I replaced the wheel cylinders, brake shoes and spring.  Not a big deal but one of my backing plates came to me with nothing on it.  Again not normally a problem, except it was missing the retainer for the brake show which goes on all 10" brakes.  Since it is not an item that normally needs to be replaced, it is not readily available and I am still searching for a used one.  New ones are expensive.  Also the brake shoes were not tapped for the bolts that hold these on so I I had to tap all those hole to 1/4x20 (factory spec is about a 7mm but I don't have those).  Also there is a locking plate that goes on each one to hold the 2 bolts from backing off, but again I didn't have those and may order some from Rovers North later but for now I just used Loctite on them.

Swivels balls: Note to self check which recess holds the Railko bushing and which holds the other bearing.  When holding the ball with the holes top and bottom the short side should be at the top and hold the Railko bushing.  I found I had it the wrong way around and had to take the ball ack out of the housing, press out both and swap them around.  My 20 ton shop press (and the torch) have been a blessing.  When placed in the swivel ball housing the fat side of the housing it on top but the narrow side of the ball fits in the top of that.

In parting, a confession: I struggled for a few days trying to get one of the front axles in without success.  It seemed like it was touching the spider gears but not going in.  I’ve done these before so I knew it shouldn’t be hard.  In frustration I called Andy to take a look.  After a couple of tries he took a light and looked into the axle…..where he found the rag I’d left in there???

Springs and U-bolts

I had been given a set of U-bolts by a friend and when I went to use them I learned things I had not known:  The rear axle U-bolts are longer than the front, and the front has 3 that are one length and one that is longer. The size, shape and thread pattern can also change, although your can generally use either, as long as the nuts you have match the U-bolt you have.  When you buy U-bolts they generally come with nuts but not with lock washers.  Here is a write-up I found what researching the subject: